Adorno,Gastronomic Authenticity,and the Politics of Eating Well

Recent trends like locavorism, green consumerism, and ethical consumption point to a new politics of eating, what is called in this article the new gastronomy, which centers on buying locally, humanely, and sustainably produced foods. However, rather than exemplifying a novel and contemporary turn in food politics, it is argued that the new gastronomy's faith in buying local is linked to an ancient politics of consumption that can be traced back to the Greeks and is grounded in virtue and temperance; and, furthermore, that this is most evident in the new gastronomy's emphasis on the humane treatment of animals. Additionally, the new gastronomy's claim of authenticity with regard to production, distribution, and consumption (for example, artisan, farm to table, etc.) works to veil this traditional politics of eating, lending its supporters a false sense of political progressivism or radicalism. Working from Theodor Adorno's analysis in The Jargon of Authenticity, it is demonstrated that what the local foods movement really offers is a jargon of gastronomic authenticity that claims self-transparency of action and provides a superficial escape from the exploitative reality of late capitalism. Finally, Adorno's critique of ideology and authenticity and his special attention to animals in his work are presented as potential disrupters of bourgeois identity and as a way to strip the ideological surface of this new gastronomy to reveal its complicity with exploitative systems of food production and distribution.