Dining with Sam Orr: Nation Review and the Restaurant Reviews of Richard Beckett

In Australia in the 1970s, restaurant dining became a popular middle-class pastime, and restaurant criticism began to play an important role in the shaping of Australian tastes. Richard Beckett was one of the most prolific Australian food writers of the 1970s and 1980s and one of the first to write a regular column devoted to restaurant reviews. Writing as Sam Orr, a satirical character invented to suit the ethos of the irreverent Nation Review, Beckett produced highly original reports of his dining experiences. He aimed to both educate and entertain his readers and to subvert the perception of restaurant dining as an elitist pastime. Beckett’s contribution as a tastemaker was disparaged at the time and has been largely neglected since. Through a consideration of the role of Nation Review, Beckett’s reviews, published responses to Sam Orr by both his critics and his fans and unpublished correspondence from readers, this article offers a reassessment of Richard Beckett’s role in the shaping of Australia’s tastes in restaurant dining through his endorsement of the distaste of taste.