Underground experience

The very first time I attempted to negotiate a fulu(service road),I feared for my life. And that was just trying to cross the thing. Having slept off my jetlag, I staggered out of a Beijing hotel and onto the road. It was dark. Unlit bikes flew past in the shadows. A car shot up the fulu in the wrong direction. There were a hundred people marching up the road, and a hundred more scurrying down. It was chaos on the boulevards, and it was scary. My head twisted from left to right and back ag…