黔东南苗族传统服饰及工艺市场化状况调查

本文是对贵州黔东南苗族服饰及其工艺的市场化状况的调查报告,报告显示,以该地区苗族传统服饰及其制作技艺为代表的传统文化资源的市场化,并非只是最近才出现的现象,它已经有相当长的发展历史,并表现为不同类型的市场化方式。作者以台江县施洞市场和新庄的例子说明,传统服饰及其制作技艺比较早就已经对市场产生了依赖性,而且还出现了新庄这样的以市场需求为目标的染料的商品化生产。特别是新庄的例子,一方面显示,传统的技艺可以依赖市场获得光大;另一方面也显示,传统技艺过去所依存的市场是以农耕经济为主导的市场,那时的蓝靛消费是市场的大众化消费,是以大众所具有的手工染布技艺为基础的一种大众化消费。换句话说,当全社会的主导经济发生变化,某项大众消费减弱时,原本具有广泛群众基础的某种技艺也就逐渐衰落成为仅有少数人掌握的技艺。在这一点上,当我们在倡导非物质文化资源保护时,应给予足够的重视。

Marketization of traditional clothes techniques Miao's in Southeast Guizhou

In this article, discusses further issues of marketization of ethnic artefacts in Guizhou. Marketization of traditional cultural resources such as Miao costumes and their associated techniques in Southeast Guizhou is not quite a recent phenomenon, but embodies a long history involving a variety of market forms. Cases of commodification of the Shidong traditional costumes and ornaments and the Xinzhuang indigo suggest that folk crafts relying on natural materials and on manual production develop primarily in the traditional market of agricultural economy. As modern markets flourish and alternative industrial products pour in, traditional craftsmanship begins to decline and is mastered only by a handful of technicians. Rise and fall of traditional workshops in Taijiang County, on the other hand, raise not only the problem of traditional technique management in modern society, but also issues concerning ways by which products made of native resources get transported for sale in distant and outside markets. Despite alterations of functions, marketization has, to some extent, helped those tradition crafts in decline to persist in modern societies.